Thursday, January 26, 2012

Adjusting to being unadjusted

A question I often get from friends when I'm back in California is if it feels weird to drive after having not driven for so long. Here in Spain, I walk or take buses or trains just about everywhere I go. But when I'm home, you bet I drive. Otherwise I'd never make it out of my parents' house.
In Spain, my trips in cars look more like this
 After my semester in Italy, and being home for Christmas during my first year in Spain, driving felt like a whole new sensation. The power of the gas petal under my foot was invigorating, as if I was fifteen again and experiencing it for the first time. Flying down the freeway was a new joy. On the flip side, sitting in southern California traffic was a new nuisance.

However, the past couple times I've been home I noticed that driving felt different, in that it felt exactly the same. In fact, this past Christmas, I was ten minutes down the freeway on my way to a friend's house before I realized, "Hey, this is my first time driving in months!" It didn't feel like anything different. It was more of a "Oh, I'm driving again. Meh."

My only conclusion- I've become adjusted to being unadjusted. Whatever muscle memory is involved in driving a car, mine can apparently now be turned back on without me even realizing it. Whether that's a good or a bad thing is debatable, but I think it's indicative that bouncing back and forth between continents is normal for me. Such is my life.

However, coming up very soon on my to do list- learn to drive a manual transmission. Working on becoming more European by the day.

Monday, January 23, 2012

My little secret

I have a secret. Believe it or not, I speak Spanish. Not a surprise to you? Oh, well I guess it's not a secret I keep from everyone. In fact, this is a secret kept only from a specific group of 200 individuals- my students at the colegio. My school last year wasn't explicit about it, but this year I was clearly told on day one: in front of the students, I am not to utter a word of Spanish. As far as they're concerned, I know nothing but English.

This often creates some entertaining situations. A student will come to ask me to translate something, only for another to remind him, "¡Ella no habla español!" Duh. I stand there and smile, pretending to have no idea what they're saying.

For the most part, the fact that my kids think I only speak English is fantastic for their education. Since I started with these kids in October I have truly seen them develop in their communication skills. If they know that they can't revert back to Spanish to get their point across to me, it is much easier for me to encourage them to be innovative and think more critically about how to make themselves understood. When Carolina didn't know the word tangerine, she described it as a tiny orange. When Manuel wanted to tell me why his arm is in a cast, he used a combination of gestures, drawings, and the vocabulary fall, pain, and doctor to demonstrate exactly how he fell off a stair railing and landed on his arm, while I corrected his verbs to past tense. It's amazing to see what these kids are capable of (linguistically, that is, not breaking bones). They might not be using grammatically perfect sentences, and they might not know all the vocabulary for what they want to say, but they can get their point across, which in the end is what matters.

There are also some draw backs to not being able to speak to my students in their native language. The above examples of kids stepping outside the box are great, but it only really works for the more outgoing students. They are aware that they're making oodles of mistakes, but these particular ones have decided that's okay, they just want to participate in class and communicate with me. Unfortunately not everyone is that brave. As a language learner myself I can sympathize. You have to set aside your pride and put yourself out there, willing to makes mistakes and potentially embarrass yourself. For some students, this means recoiling into a shell and not talking to the English teacher at all, because the safety net of Spanish isn't there. For many, calling on them to read aloud is just about the worst punishment I can give them.

Keeping up this secret is sometime difficult. When there are no students around I speak to the other teachers in Spanish, and we sometimes find ourselves forgetting to switch to English when students come around. But what can be even more difficult is hiding my understanding when I'm surrounded by Spanish. I can't help the way I react to certain things, that I laugh at something funny, that I gasp at something shocking. A few students are slowly catching on to my secret, and some have even called me out.

"So you do speak Spanish!"
"No, no," my coworker assured the clever eleven year old, "Amy's just nodding her head and pretending like she understands."

One thing I've learned for certain, bilingual life is never boring.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

How not to eat a Reese's peanut butter cup

A bit of advice: If you ever come across someone in your life who has never tasted peanut butter, never experienced the joy that is contained in a Reese's peanut butter cup, and you decide to enlighten them, make sure you tell them about the paper on the outside of the cup. You know, the dark brown one that looks an awful lot like chocolate?

On second thought, don't. It's pretty funny to watch.
Also, if you bring a two pound bag of Reese's back to Spain with you, get a gym pass to go with it.


Sunday, January 1, 2012

2011

This year was probably my best yet. It was the first, and hopefully not the last, that I spent more time outside the United States than in it. Nine of the twelve months living in Spain, ten countries visited, and twelve new stamps and one new visa in my passport. It was also my first full year keeping this blog. The themes of the year- Spain, traveling, teaching, and blogging- are all things I plan to keep up in the years to come.

Enjoy some of my favorite pictures from the year.
Málaga, January 2011
Sierra de las Nieves (Ronda), February 2011
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Canary Islands, February 2011
Sierra Huétor, Granada, March 2011
The Alhambra, Granada, March 2011
Buckingham Palace, London, April 2011
Newcastle, April 2011
Kelvingrove Park, Glasgow, April 2011
Playa las Salinas, Ibiza, May 2011
Antequera, May 2011
Paris, June 2011
Salzburg, Austria, June 2011
Amsterdam, June 2011
Disneyland, California, July 2011
Fiesta de la Cerveza, Málaga, October 2011
Talamanca de Jarama (Madrid), November 2011
Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland, December 2011
St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, December 2011
Considering I saw all these things with my own two eyes this year, I'm pretty grateful for this life I live.

Happy 2012!

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Third time's the charm

Back in California for Christmas, this is my third time coming home from Europe for the holidays, and each time has felt very different.

The first time was coming back from my semester in Italy in 2008, and I was too cool for America. I'd gotten my first taste of living overseas. I remember despising anything American, any reminder that I wasn't in Europe anymore. Pick-up trucks, super-sized grocery stores, and kids running lemonade stands would all anger me. "That's so American," I would think, imagining myself a highly cultured individual now that I had spent four months in Europe. Looking back now, it was immature and arrogant. I eventually got off my high horse, but that deep desire to be somewhere else in the world is what got me to Spain, so I can't regret it.
How could I not be cool having lived a short walk from here?
Last year I came home for the holidays four months in to my time in Spain. It was perfect timing for me, right at that stage of culture shock when I was getting really homesick. The honeymoon stage of culture shock had ended and I needed a taste of home. Peanut butter. Mexican food. Target. Driving a car. People being on time. I was craving it all. I needed a break from jamón, tapas, cobbled streets, and being a guiri. Two weeks at home was exactly what the doctor ordered and I went back to Spain in January with a new wave of motivation to make the most of my experience.
On my "To Eat" list every trip home
This year I feel different from either of the previous two times. I am of course enjoying all the comforts of home, but to be honest I wasn't ecstatic to come back like I was last year. Spain has absolutely turned in to home for me, and I was sad to be leaving it for the holidays. All the little things that used to bug me are just a part of life I've adapted to. I've found the shinier side of the coin for nearly everything that I at one point complained about in Spain. Nothing is open on Sundays, but there are six other days in the week to run your errands. Waiters and sales clerks don't put on fake customer service smiles like they do here, but when you run in to someone you know, you kiss them on both cheeks and ask them how they and their family are, because you actually care.

I will always be glad to see my family in California and they are the reason I will keep coming back, but I didn't have a check list of things to eat and experience while at home like I did last year. If there was a list, it would have been: 1- Spend time with family. 2- Spend time with friends. I am definitely fulfilling that list, and enjoying every minute of it. Ten more days of family and friends, and ten more days until Spain. Both are good things in my book.

Monday, December 19, 2011

The Emerald Isle

I apologize for the dearth of bloggage lately. I've been busy freezing my face off in Ireland and England the last two weekends, working in between, and now have three days left to pack and bid farewell and happy holidays to the Spain family before I head home for Christmas on Thursday. Did I mention I'm also still working all this week? That I plan to find time to make Christmas sugar cookies to bring to work? That I still need to do my Christmas shopping? Who needs to sleep anyway?

In the mean time, enjoy a bit of Northern Ireland and Ireland, which is better expressed in pictures than words (especially since I couldn't understand a word of what some people said there anyway).
Northern Ireland coast
Steak and Guinness pie and a hot toddy
Giant's Causeway


Belfast Christmas market
Queen of Tarts, please go there when ever you visit Dublin
Mandatory tour of Guinness storehouse
Christ Church Cathedral, which had a Christmas market in its crypt
Feliz Navidad a todos!

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Andaluz: the tiny soccer ball of Spanish

One of my soccer coaches when I was about 12 had a brilliant idea. We did our drills at practice with size one soccer balls. Here's a picture I stole so you can get a size comparison for just how small it is.
As you can imagine, this made simple exercises much more difficult. A pass or volley you normally do with little effort now takes much more precision. The benefit to practicing this way? When you switch back to normal sized balls, it's like washing your windshield for the first time in ages and finally being able to see again. Or like taking a blindfold off. If you can do something with a size one ball, you'll never have a problem doing it with a normal one.

Why do I mention this now? Because I recently had an epiphany, and I decided that Andaluz (ahem, Andalú), the particular dialect of Spanish I'm learning here in Andalucía, is the tiny soccer ball of Spanish. I could go learn the crisp, clear, Spanish of Madrid or Valladolid, but where's the fun in that? Only pronouncing every other syllable means listening to everyday conversations is like deciphering cryptic messages.

In order for the words to make sense, I used to have to mentally fill in the blanks and reread the sentence in my head. By the time I'd processed that and was ready to chime in to the conversation, I was way behind. Poco a poco it's getting easier, and now I find myself very conscious of the fact that I'm understanding words and phrases that once would have left me puzzled.

However, when I switch to the full size soccer ball, when I talk to a student's mom who is from Salamanca, or a coworker back home who's Colombian, the full effect of Andaluz hits me. Listening to them compared to Andalucíans is like night and day. I can go the entire conversation without missing a word (sometimes), a feat I have yet to accomplish in Andaluz.

But am I packing my bags and running away to the north? Absolutely not. If I can make it here, I can make it anywhere in the Spanish speaking world, but I'm not going anywhere. I'm hitting the books and working on dropping the 'd' in my 'ado' endings. Study with me: